
03 Feb Why the Happiest Surfer Always Wins (And How to Become One)
Let’s get one thing straight: surfing is not the Olympics. No one is getting a gold medal for making it to the lineup first. And yet, for some reason, there’s this idea floating around that the best surfer is the one who started at age five, does aerials like it’s a casual Tuesday, and paddles like they’ve got an outboard motor attached to their feet. But you know what? That’s nonsense.
The best surfer in the water? That’s the person laughing their head off while wiping out, the one grinning ear-to-ear just for standing up, the one who paddles back after every wave with the excitement of a kid who just discovered that fries can come with extra cheese. Because here’s the truth—if you’re not having fun, you’re doing it wrong.
Who Decided Surfing Was a Competition?
Somewhere along the way, people started treating surfing like it was an extreme sport mixed with an episode of Survivor. You’ve got surfers out there fighting for waves like they’re the last piece of pizza at a house party.
But let’s be real, there’s always going to be a better surfer than you. Even if you train, practice, and dedicate your entire existence to the sport, there’s some 12-year-old in Tahiti casually pulling into barrels you wouldn’t even paddle for. So what’s the point of getting stressed about it? Surfing isn’t a video game where you have to “level up” by World Surf League criteria to enjoy it. You don’t need to unlock some hidden skill to be worthy of catching a wave.
You know what you do need? A good attitude, a healthy appreciation for the ocean, and maybe a strong paddling game—because let’s be honest, that part’s non-negotiable.
Starting Late? Congratulations, You Win.
People love to say, “I wish I started surfing earlier.” You hear it all the time, like there’s some universal law that says you have to start as a toddler or you’ve already failed.
Starting surfing later in life comes with perks. For one, you actually appreciate it. When you’re a kid, everything is just another activity your parents sign you up for. But when you’re an adult, you know that getting out into the ocean isn’t just fun, it’s therapy, it’s exercise, it’s that much-needed escape from emails and spreadsheets. You don’t take it for granted.
And if you’re looking for a welcoming place to start surfing and immersing yourself in this culture, somewhere with expert instructors, chill vibes, and the kind of people who cheer for your wipeouts just as much as your rides, check out Wave House Surf Camp in Bali.
Expectation: The Silent Wave Killer
You ever notice that the more you expect, the more disappointed you get? That’s why so many people paddle out, catch amazing waves, and still come out grumpy. They expected something more. Maybe they thought they’d get the wave of the day. Maybe they thought today would be the day they finally nailed that turn. But if you expect perfection, you’re setting yourself up for failure.
Meanwhile, the happiest surfer in the lineup? That’s the person who went in with zero expectations and came out stoked just to be in the water. The person who’s out there hooting for strangers, riding knee-high waves like they’re 10-foot barrels, and cracking jokes when they nosedive straight into the foam.
Expectation is the enemy of fun. Let it go.
For more on the power of letting go and staying present, check out The Art of Letting Go in Surfing.
Surfing Is Like a Campfire, Not a Contest
Surfing isn’t about being the best, it’s about sharing the experience. Think of it like sitting around a campfire. The fire doesn’t care who built it first or who has the fanciest marshmallow stick. It’s about the warmth, the stories, and the simple joy of being there.
The best sessions aren’t the ones where you get the most waves, although sometimes it is, they’re the ones where you’re sharing laughs with friends, encouraging a beginner, or just soaking in the beauty of the ocean. The stoke is contagious, and the more you give, the more you get back.
For an interesting take on how surfing can change your mindset and life, check out: Unlocking the Psychological Wonders and Benefits of Surfing
Nature Doesn’t Care About Your Skill Level
One of the best things about surfing is that the ocean doesn’t discriminate. It doesn’t care if you’ve been surfing for 30 years or 3 days. It doesn’t care if you have a custom board made of space-age materials or a foamie you bought secondhand from a guy named “Big Dave.”
The ocean gives waves to everyone, but it’s up to you to enjoy them.
Some people will always stress about catching the biggest, best wave. Others will focus on improving their technique every single session. But the happiest surfer? That’s the one who treats every wave like a gift, not an obligation.
Final Verdict: Who’s the Best?
So, let’s settle it once and for all. The best surfer isn’t the one with the most sponsors, the best technique, or the longest history in the sport. The best surfer is the one having the most fun. Period.
So next time you paddle out, leave the expectations on the shore. Forget about who’s better, who’s getting more waves, or whether or not you “belong” in the lineup. Just go out there, have a blast, and remember why this sport is so worth the lifestyle, philosophy and play.
Because at the end of the day, no matter how skilled you are, no one ever quits surfing because they had too much fun.