Journal: Tips, Spots & Camp Stories for Surfers!
Genetics of a Surfer, Meet The Recovery Gene: BDNF and Its Role in Surfing (Part 4)
Genetics of a Surfer, Meet The Recovery Gene: BDNF and Its Role in Surfing (Part 4)
The Truth About Surf Confidence: How to Feel in Control on Bigger Waves
You Think Confidence Feels Like Certainty. It Doesn’t.
The Wave You Didn’t Take: On Discipline, Desire & Letting Go
There is a quiet moment in every surf session that rarely gets talked about. A wave rises, draws a clean line across the ocean, and for a split second, everything in you wants to go. Then something else speaks. You hesitate. You let it pass.
The Unspoken Social Rules of the Lineup (That No One Teaches You)
Most surfers learn to paddle, stand, and ride a wave. What rarely gets taught directly is surf lineup etiquette. Yet these quiet social rules shape every surf session.
Identity, Belonging, and the Social Side of Surfing
Surfing is often described as a solitary dance with the ocean. A person, a board, a moving wall of water. Yet anyone who spends time in the lineup eventually realizes something surprising.
The Most Common Surf Travel Mistake Smart People Still Make
Smart people plan their surf trips carefully. They compare swell charts, read spot guides, and watch more webcams than they care to admit.
Why Progress Happens Faster in a Week Than in a Year of Solo Surfing
Surf progression fast is not about luck, talent, or catching more waves than everyone else in the lineup. The real accelerator is something far less obvious. It is environment.
The One Habit That Separates Surfers Who Plateau From Surfers Who Break Through
Most surfers do not plateau because they lack talent, strength, or courage. They plateau because they repeat the same sessions without extracting new information.
Why Good Surfers Abort More Waves Than They Ride
If you watch a good surfer closely, something unexpected happens. They paddle hard, angle their board, then stop. They pull back at the last second. Again and again. To most people, it looks like hesitation. In reality, it is one of the clearest signs of surf intelligence.
How the Moon Decides Your Surf: Neap Tide, Extreme Tides and the Real Surfing Windows
Most surfers check the swell, glance at the wind, and hope for the best. A smaller group checks the tide. Very few stop to consider the quiet conductor behind it all: the moon.
What Surf Coaches See in 30 Seconds That Most Surfers Miss All Session
Give a surf coach thirty seconds at the shoreline, and they’ll already know more about your surfing future than you might learn in a full session alone.
Surf Decision Making Under Uncertainty: How Better Surfers Think in the Ocean (Part 2)
Most surfers think progress is loud. Bigger waves. Stronger paddling. Sharper turns. But the real leap happens quietly, long before the wave arrives.
How Surfers Make Better Decisions in the Ocean, Even When Conditions Are Uncertain (Part 1)
Surfing is not just about balance or bravery. At its core, it is about how you make better decisions in surfing when the ocean refuses to be predictable.
